West Highland Way, 28 August to 5 September 2024

Only a few light showers as we headed off on day one of our Highland adventure. We encountered our first obstacle, a fallen tree, within the first 20 minutes. We had two morning teas – one at the fire sitters memorial (apparently where the homeless used to gather during the great depression), and the second at the more comfortable Beech Inn. After picking our way along some muddy sections of path we arrived at the delightful Turnip the Beet cafe for lunch. More of the same slightly muddy path led us to Drymen and our home for the night, the Buchanan Hotel with a handy pool and spa!

Enthusiastic and with promise of good weather, we started day two of our walk at Drymen Old School House. The thistle way marker led us through natural forest, green pastures and open moorland. Climbing Conic Hill rewarded us with stunning views over Loch Lomond, the largest body of freshwater in Scotland. It also had a steep, rocky path down. We celebrated conquering Conic Hill climb at St Mocha Coffee Shop, where we saw the statue of Tom Weir, a famous Scottish hiker. Afterwards we walked along the shore of Loch Lomond with tiny beaches and rocky coves to Rowardennan.

On day three we split into 2 groups taking the high road AND the low road for a while. This was to avoid the “tortuous” lower route which hugged Loch Lomond. Both routes turned out to be enjoyable. And we arrived almost simultaneously at Inversnaid for lunch. We continued to Ardleish in plenty of time to ‘raise the ball’  announcing to the ferryman that we were ready to be ferried to our hotel, the Ardlui, for comfy rooms and a great meal followed by sticky toffee pudding.

Day four and we again split into two groups, though we weren’t far apart. Following the bracken lined, partly muddy, partly flooded track we walked under the powerlines and parallel to the A82 roadway. We stopped after 7km for morning tea along the track for glimpses to the Falls of Falloch. After crossing under the road and railway line we followed the old military road including a dry-stone wall, to the turnoff to Crainlarich.  From here the trail rose to a viewpoint where we had lunch in a clearing amongst the trees.  Continuing on, we had great views of Ben More and Stob Binnein to the east. Crossing over the A82, again we passed 7^th century St Fillian’s Priory. With 3 km to go, seven of us detoured to have coffee and cake at Artisan, a coffee shop in an old church, the meandered past the information signs for the Battle of Dalrigh, Legend of the Lost Sword and Robert the Bruce.

A short, 11.5km walk on day five, on paths and tracks, and flat terrain. We passed Ben Odhar, a Corbett of 901M on our right, as well as Beinn Dorain, a Munro at 1076M. And we learned that in Scotland there are 221 Corbetts (762 – 914M high), and  282 Munros (over 914M).

After a magnificent breakfast on day six we headed over the Bridge of Orchy and climbed to the viewpoint at Mam Carraigh. The trail then descended until we picked up the Drove road for most of the day. Unfortunately, our views across Rannoch Moor were often obscured by cloud or rain. We had coffee at the Glencoe ski resort just before making our way to our accommodation having covered just over 20 km for the day in good time.

Promising early sunlight on day seven soon morphed into light ‘scotch mist’ until later in the day, but with very spectacular views of the crags surrounding the Kingshouse hotel. We proceeded up the glen stopping for a briefing on the Glencoe massacre of 1692 from the leader. A quite steep climb up the Devil’s Stairs to views of the Blackwater Reservoir, which is the headwater for the hydro scheme, passed later in the day. First sighting for the trip of birds of prey (were they buzzards?). Long descent across bare hills until walking through the more wooded valley of the river Leven into Kinlochleven.

Day eight supplied a stunning day, blue skies, amazing views of Ben Nevis and perhaps the best lunch spot so far. Total distance of 25km with 860m of elevation gain. After reaching the end point of this fantastic walk we were off to the local ale house for a well deserved pint of a local drop.

Great Glen Way, 7 September to 14 September

Meeting at the official start of the Great Glen Way at the Old Fort built in 1654 and later replaced by Cromwell we followed the new blue GGW trail signs, stopping to view the ruins of Inverlochy Castle. The Jacobite Express Steam train crossed the railway bridge while we were there, an impressive sight. Some of us had ridden it on the previous day on an outing to Mallaig. From there we walked through suburbia to the seafront at Corpach Loch on the Atlantic side of the Caledonian Canal. Morning tea of coffee and cake at An Cafaidh café was enjoyed at the outdoor picnic tables with views to the loch and harbour. Crossing back over the Corpach double loch we followed the tow path to Neptune’s Staircase, an impressive engineering feat of a series of 8 lochs. On reaching Gairlochy, another swing bridge, where most of us opted to be picked up by the accommodation for a 20.5 km total. Four walkers were keen to walk the 7 km to Spean Bridge and headed off only to find out that because of a car accident blocking the road at the Commando Memorial we all had to walk! Simon, the accommodation host, managed to pick some of us up in batches along the way when the road cleared. At the Coire Glas BnB we were greeted with cold glasses of water and a complicated breakfast and drop off schedule for the following morning. We all dined together at the Old Station Restaurant.

A car shuttle to start day two meant the first group had to wait amongst the midges which were the most bothersome of the whole trip (for some). Only 12 walkers today, a couple opted to catch the bus. A little misty to start as we threaded our way through the loch side forest but it soon cleared to a pleasant day. John Roger, Kathy and Don chose to detour to visit the Clan Cameron museum, the rest of us walked on as we had a bus to catch and an early dinner booking. We did manage to squeeze in a stop at the characterful Eagle Barge at Laggan Locks for coffee and drinks.

On day three the five who had stayed at Forest Lodge near Laggan Locks walked an extra 7 km, mainly on tracks, to join the rest who had stayed at Invergarry. Two of the five then walked a (claimed!) 6 km to find a public toilet on top of that.

From Invergarry it was 5 km up and down to Aberchalder, where we stopped near the Bridge of Oich for a late morning tea/early lunch (Munch?), cut short by threatening weather. The path then ran beside the canal and waterway, and past Kytra Lock, for the rest of the way. Perhaps the highlights were seeing a slow worm on the path (actually a type of legless lizard) and a flash of dark brown scooting across the path to the water (an otter?).On arrival in Fort Augustus, with a couple of hours to spare before we could check in to accommodation, our first stop was a coffee shop/bar.

The high route was chosen on day four and provided great views across Loch Ness. The previous day’s rain and cold provided a good covering of snow on Ben Nevis, which was sighted well to the south. Morning tea was quick, due to the friendliness of the local midges. Lunch was however in a glorious spot in some newly felled pine forest. Sitting on stumps and felled logs high above the Loch in some sun with a glorious view done the loch and into Invermoriston. A steep down through the remaining forest and a stunning old bridge rounded out a good day. Some exceptional Scottish cakes were available in a small café.

Tough but rewarding day five. 22 km with approximately 600 m ascent and about the same descent. Started by climbing steeply on a zigzag path through the forest out of Invermoriston then dropped down and climbed again to the highest point on the Great Glen Way. Here we had morning tea with a view of Ben Nevis in the far distance with a dusting of snow that had fallen yesterday. Intermittent cloud and drizzle as usual but no truly drenching rain or freezing cold. Or midges. Next came easy walking on a wide balcony with great views of Loch Ness. Lunch was had at the pottery cafe near Grotaig. Stunning pottery and even better homemade whisky flavoured fruit cake. Finished the day with a bit of walking on a quiet country road past quaint old farms.

Two small buses dropped us off near Abriachan for the start of day six. A short walk took us to the Loch Laide road and the forest school with a whole network of paths. We had been advised of a new high route and there was some confusion as to signage and which route was on the app. That sorted we followed the new path and the app to the top of Carn Na Litre at 434m, with distant views all around. From there we descended gradually, taking a side path down to an old whiskey still, hidden amongst vegetation and buried in the hillside. We then carried on down another track, which took us across to meet up with the Way again a little further down.Thereafter, we descended in stages, down to the main road and back to Drumnadrochit

On our last walking day we were again transferred from Drumnadrochit to the starting point near Abriachan and walked the high route to our finish location in Inverness. Walking along a road for a distance we then joined a lovely path descending through the forest and eventually to the outskirts of Inverness where our high lunch spot gave us the first glimpses of the town. We then descended into the outskirts to reach the Caledonian Canal for the last time and then to the Botanical Gardens for coffee. Walking along the beautiful River Ness we made our way to the finish of the Great Glen Way at Inverness Castle with everyone feeling a great sense of achievement.